1/15/2024 0 Comments Optoma projector uhd50x![]() No attempt was made to detect film- sourced content. It soon became clear that interlaced 50Hz content, both for 1080i/50 and 576i/50, was simply assumed by the projector to be videosourced. If it’s not quite white, the ‘Wall Colour’ mode adjusts the picture for a more accurate result on surfaces which are ‘Blackboard’, light yellow, light green, light blue, pink and grey. There’s also a setting for those who find themselves resorting to projecting against a wall of their home. But out of the box, the colour settings were very good. You can tweak colours to make them more accurate - or to your taste - if you like. When we switched out the lights, so much the more so. Even if we left on the full glare of two fluorescent tubes in our test room, the picture was bold, clear and colourful. Our test pattern showed clear delineation of its lines and spaces, each of which occupies only one UHD pixel width or height.Īnd bright the projector certainly was. Nevertheless this difference was virtually unnoticeable with bright material showing on the screen.ĭid this projector deliver real Ultra-HD 4K resolution? Indeed it did. We used a meter and found that the brightest section was receiving around 1500 lux, while the dullest corner was treated to only around 800 lux. Without it switched on, black levels were a little muddy and rather uneven, with a brighter patch showing towards the bottom centre of the picture (with the projector operating in desktop mode). But if you switch Dynamic Black on (it’s off by default), dark scenes are impressive and blacks are nicely deep. It doesn’t offer such things as motion smoothing, though much of Hollywood now advises against using motion smoothing anyway. First, let’s look at the Optoma UHD50X as a home cinema projector.įor that function it has a fairly basic feature set. We will get into the that 240Hz thing for gamers shortly. For a 100-inch (2.54 metre) 16:9 diagonal, the projector needs to be between 2.68 and 3.52 metres from the screen. ![]() The lens has a 1.3:1 zoom range along with vertical lens shift. Apparently this input also supports MHL 2.1 - a way of connecting to Android phones. And if you switch on Enhanced Gaming Mode, it can handle up to 1080p/240. The other is HDMI 2.0 with HDCP2.2 support, so it supports signals up to 2160p/p/120. One of the HDMI inputs conforms to HDMI 1.4 standards - which is 1080p. You can support the site directly via Paypal donations ☕. The projector has a 10W amplifier and speaker built in, having also an analogue audio input, along with outputs - analogue and optical digital - so that the projector can offload audio to more competent external speakers.ħReview earns Amazon affiliate commissions from qualifying purchases. There are two HDMI inputs, along with a D-SUB15 socket for analogue video. ![]() The lamp is rated at up to 15,000 hours of life depending on the mode you use, although a still impressive 10,000 hours is available in standard brightness. Optoma rates its brightness at a very high 3400 lumens, and contrast ratio also very high at 500,000:1. It uses a 1080p Digital Micromirror Device with four-way pixel-shifting to generate a true 3840×2160 pixels. The Optoma UHD50X is an Ultra-HD projector. Let’s look into both sides of this projector. Since cinema movies run at only a tenth of that frame-rate, it’s gaming that’s the stand-out feature here.īut there are also plenty of cinema-friendly attributes, like 4K resolution and support for HDR10 and HLG (Hybrid Log Gamma). The very first feature mentioned is that this is: “The World’s First 240Hz Cinema Gaming Projector”. Fortunately Mouser sells the part for $30 but still.It’s clear at whom our third projector this issue, the Optoma UHD50X, is chiefly aimed. I tried to clean some off and bent the pins. You may find stray thermal paste on some of them. Don't push on them, don't breathe on them. Then the 'carrier' that holds the dmd is a little plastic thing with tons of teeny tiny gold spring contacts. It will then unclip the little tabs from the plastic. I can't recall at the moment but you need to spin it all the way to one extreme and then a tiny bit more. You don't want to try and replace the dmd without taking out the optics. ![]() The ballast I think can stay and the main power supply stay. You'll need to remove the metal cover on the mainboard, then the mainboard, and keep going until you expose the optical assembly completely. The screws should go back where they came from so you don't accidently short something out using too long of a screw where a short screw should be. keep a few little cups for organizing the screws and note what area they came from. Wear nitrile gloves and again take your time. Take your time, take lots of pictures as you go. Its maybe a 6 out of 10 on the hardness scale? ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |